In 2019, I stood at the Jirkatang check post in the Andaman Islands, waiting for a convoy to move. The air was thick with the specific humidity of the tropics—a smell of salt, wet earth, and diesel. Waiting for the convoy at Jirkatang. I was there for the same reason everyone else was: to see the limestone caves of Baratang, a natural wonder hidden deep within the archipelago. But to get there, we had to do something that felt increasingly wrong the longer I thought about it. We had to drive the Andaman Trunk Road (ATR). The rules at the check post were strict, barked out by officials who were doing their best to manage an impossible situation: • Speed limit 40 kmph. • Travel only in convoys. • No stopping. • No rolling down windows. • Absolutely no interaction with the Jarawa tribe. The intent behind these rules is protective. The gov...
If you have traveled to Hyderabad recently, you know the landmark. On the elevated expressway to the Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, there is a massive building shaped like a fish. It is the National Fisheries Development Board, but for travelers, it is a milestone. When you see the fish, you know you are almost there. It is the bookend of the trip. Seeing it today, on my way out, marked the end of a journey "home" to India, and the start of the journey "home" to the US. The view on the way to the airport. The Break in School There is an old adage that has been on my mind during these weeks of observation: "You learn throughout your life, except for a short break in school." We often treat a vacation as a break from thinking. But this trip was the opposite. It was a fresh look. When you step out of your routine, the contrast clarifies everything. I watched India changing in real-time. I saw the seamless blend of technology and service,...